[FOOD COURT] North Korean cold noodle restaurants you won't want to miss

Sometimes, even being in an air-conditioned room is not enough to forget the heat during the dog days of the Korean summer. Cue Korean cold
noodles.

A bowl of naengmyeon, noodles in cold broth, from Seogwan Myeonok in Gangnam District, southern Seoul [LEE SUN-MIN]

Sometimes, even being in an air-conditioned room is not enough to forget the heat during the dog days of the Korean summer.

Cue Korean cold noodles.

Naengmyeon, which literally means cold noodles in Korean, is one of the popular dishes in summer. At large, it can come in two different versions: noodles with cold broth or noodles with a spicier, hot pepper sauce.

Naengmyeon can also be categorized based on where the specific dish's style originated. Naengmyeon from Pyongyang in North Korea uses thicker noodles made of buckwheat and is often called Pyongyang Naengmyeon. Another style from North Korea, in Hamheung, has thinner noodles made of potato or sweet potato starch. Both styles can be enjoyed either in cold broth or with a spicy sauce.

Here are some popular places to try out to get just the right taste of naengmyeon in Korea.

Pildong Myeonok Even for the simple dish of naengmeyon, there are many variations — and Pildong Myeonok is one of most popular places in Seoul for Pyongyang-style naengmyeon.

Mulnaengmyeon at Pildong Myeonok [LEE SUN-MIN]

Those who go for the Pyongyang version almost always choose mulnaengmyeon, the cold broth option. At first sip, the broth may taste bland, but sip by sip, a subtle beef flavor appears. Some add vinegar and mustard, set on the tables, to their bowl, but still many choose to eat the dish as it comes to fully appreciate the subtle flavor. A side of pork slices is another dish available to compliment the noodle dish.

While mulnaengmyeon controls the overwhelming popularity here, some trendsetters these days have been sharing their testimonies on how they have underestimated Pildong Myeonok's bibim naengmyeon, the version with spicy sauce. Its sauce is not as hot and has hints of sweetness.

Located not far from central Seoul’s Mount Namsan, many choose this restaurant to end their light stroll in nature.

26 Seoae-ro, Jung District (02) 2266-2611

Woo Lae Oak This is another spot well known for its Pyongyang-style mulnaengmyeon, but its unique version of kimchi mari guksu (noodles mixed with kimchi) is also worth trying out.

Kimchi mari guksu from Woo Lae Oak [LEE SUN-MIN]

The noodles of the kimchi mari guksu are also placed in the center, but they are surrounded by kimchi and beef slices. Inside the dish, hidden at the bottom of the bowl, is a healthy portion of rice that has soaked up the flavors of the kimchi and broth.

The restaurant is close to the trendy Euljiro area that houses many other restaurants, bars and dessert shops.

62-29 Changgyeonggung-ro, Jung District (02) 2265-0151

Seogwan Myeonok Many decades-old restaurants best known for serving Pyongyang-style naengmyeon are located in central Seoul, north of the Han River. Seogwan Myeonok has been satiating the cravings of naengmyeon lovers in southern Seoul with its own rendition of cold noodles since 2018.

Goldongmyeon from Seogwan Myeonok [LEE SUN-MIN]

Aside from the classic mulnaengmyeon that’s popular here, the goldongmyeon is another strong contender worth trying. The dish comes with many different vegetables, beef slices, mushrooms, perilla seeds and gim (seaweed), all surrounding noodles in the center. After adding a bit of perilla oil to the dish and mixing everything together, it's time to dig in. The perilla seeds and oil add flavor to the dish. Perilla oil can be added to each individual's taste, as a bottle of perilla oil is placed on every table.

11 Seochodaero 56-gil, Seocho District (02) 521-9945

Banryongsan Compared to the Pyongyang alternative, it is relatively difficult to find a restaurant specialized in serving Hamheung-style noodles unless you go to the Ojang-dong neighborhood in Jung District, central Seoul.

Hamheung-style bibim naengmyeon at Banryongsan [LEE SUN-MIN]

Yet Banryongsan, close to the Coex mall and Samseong Station, line No. 2, has been steady with its Hamheung style offerings. It is most well-known for its bibim naengmyeon.

Almost like an unsaid rule, many people opt for the broth version when eating Pyongyang naengmyeon and choose the spicy naengmyeon when eating Hamheung naengmyeon.

That said, Banryongsan's spicy bibim naengmyeon is the restaurant's hit. You can choose the simple dish with just the spicy sauce, or choose hoe naengmyeon, that comes with a few pieces of raw fish alongside the spicy sauce. While Pyongyang-style restaurants offer a hot drink made from boiling the noodles, Banryongsan offers hot beef broth to drink.

26 Teheran-ro 78-gil, Gangnam District (02) 3446-8966

BY LEE SUN-MIN [lee.sunmin@joongang.co.kr]